Continued from Digital Nomads & British Vacation - Part 1 and Digital Nomads & British Vacation - Part 2
We have a great many fond memories of our trip this past Spring. Following are some of our remembrances, observations, and highlights:
• We encountered an extremely wide range of weather, environments, and conditions
• Elevation - Avon in the Colorado Rockies sits at an elevation of 7,420 feet. Nine days later we were in Chicago at 590 ft. above sea level. From Chicago we flew to London, which has an elevation of 36 ft, and, obviously the beaches in the UK were at sea level.
• Population - Contrast London and its population of 8,908,081 to the coastal village of Tongue in Scotland with all of 564 residents.
• Weather - Snow on moving day in Highlands Ranch to sunny Colorado days in the Rockies; sun, rain and flooding in Iowa; rain and snow and sun in Chicago. London was very warm and humid the night we arrived. During the week, the weather transitioned to rain in Oxford. Rain started our drive to Glasgow, but the sun came out before we entered Scotland. In Scotland, we had mild sunny and cloudy days, and a few very cold rainy ones too. Once we got back to the States we had a mix of cool nights and late Spring heat.
• Fortunately, we were prepared for all the weather/environmental possibilities and even for a few that thankfully didn't happen, but playing musical chairs with luggage while packing and unpacking the car 26 times was not without its challenges as we had fairly limited space in our Mazda 6 and the compact Kia we rented in the UK.
• We joined many hotel loyalty rewards clubs (IHG, Hilton, Hotels.com, Bonvoy) and utilized those reward points combined with new travel credit card rewards to bring our lodging costs down to an average of $67.91 per night, and we also earned more reward points for future stays.
Westin Riverfront Mountain Villas (Avon, CO)
Days 5-8: It's hard to beat the view from my “office” in our one bedroom villa at the base of Beaver Creek Mountain along the Eagle River
Dunvegan Camping Pod (Isle of Skye, Scotland)
Days 35-37: Living in a tiny house for three days on the Isle of Skye was quite an experience. After staying at a B&B in Fort William, we appreciated having a place to ourselves. It is pretty amazing how many amenities fit into such a small space; mini fridge, cooktop, cutlery, crockery, pans, dishes, toaster, microwave, kettle, heater, wifi, and the tiniest shower with ample hot water. It was also nice to have our base on Skye nestled in the quiet and relaxing town of Dunvegan.
Tongue Hotel (Highland, Scotland)
Day 39: “Built in the mid 1800s and owned by the Duke of Sutherland, The Tongue Hotel boasts 19 unique bedrooms and many original features such as wood panelling, open fires, traditional antique furnishings, genuine exhibits and authentic paintings. Steeped in history, the hotel has a romantic, enchanting feel which delights and excites all who enter here. This former hunting lodge is nestled within the sleepy village of Tongue situated on the north coast of the stunning Scottish highlands making it Top, Front and Centre of the North Coast 500 route! Overlooking the beautiful Kyle, the stunning Ben Loyal, and the gentle sweep of Ben Hope with Castle Varrich in the fore, the Tongue Hotel offers the visitor a glimpse of its glamorous past and reflects a bygone era.” – NorthCoast500.com
We weren't expecting one of the best nights on our journey to be in this very remote area of the Northern Highlands, but the NorthCoast500.com description above was spot on. The staff at the Tongue Hotel were so genuinely hospitable (especially Lorraine), the room was comfortable and charming, and the meals (dinner and breakfast) were quite enjoyable with a quintessentially Scottish feel. Cary ate a bit of haggis for the first time here with his full Scottish breakfast, and actually liked it.
Days 49-53: “At the intersection of art & science, Hotel EMC2 is a downtown Chicago boutique hotel by the Magnificent Mile in Chicago's Streeterville neighborhood.”
"Albert Einstein once said, 'After a certain high level of technical skill is achieved, science and art coalesce in esthetics, plasticity, and form. The greatest scientists are always artists as well.' That could be the defining principle behind Hotel EMC2 in Chicago, named for Einstein's Famous equation establishing the Theory of Special Relativity.” – Hotel EMC2
We enjoyed staying and working at Hotel EMC2 in the Streeterville neighborhood; especially since it was paid for with points. Cary was very happy the hotel staff encouraged us to make use of Leo and Cleo - the robot attendants. They brought us towels and kleenex while automatically navigating the halls and elevators. Here is a video of Leo and Cleo in action.
(images from Hotel EMC2 and The Points Guy review)
Marks @ The Manor (Aberdeen, Scotland)
Days 40-41: The expansive, very well appointed, one-bedroom apartment in a Grade B listed Scottish building from 1903 overlooking the River Dee was easily our favorite stay on the trip and perhaps ever. The Marks & Spencer theme was a touching homage to the owner’s father and also a delight to experience; from the Marks & Spencer food hamper to the luxurious Marks & Spencer Autograph bedding, towels, and furnishings. Richard anticipated virtually every possible need. It was historic yet modern, formal yet comfortable, and altogether blissful.
Chef Michael Bay's Michelin star awarded restaurant on the Isle of Skye was our best meal on the entire trip.
“This pretty little crofter’s cottage sits in an idyllic hamlet and is a pleasingly simple place, with a wood-burning stove and Harris Tweed covered chairs. The experienced chef skilfully prepares intensely flavoured Scottish dishes with French overtones.” – Michelin Guide 2020
Everything was wonderful. Lynda especially enjoyed her Golden Baked Salsify in Phyllo (first time eating salsify, pictured below) and her Assiette de Desserts (pictured below), and Cary was very happy with his Highland Venison (left), the Highland Beef Three Ways, and the very whisky forward Clootie Dumpling & Whisky Cream (pictured below) (Clootie Dumpling image from Olive Magazine)
Afternoon Tea - Colonnades at the Signet Library (Edinburgh)
The Colonnades at the Signet Library provided a calm, quiet respite, away from the bustling crowds of Edinburgh Castle and The Royal Mile. What Cary enjoyed most is that they had an equal amount of tasty savoury items as they had delicious sweets. (photo from The Signet Library)
“Situated near the High Court it is a fine example of Georgian architecture with a jaw dropping interior. It gained a royal seal of approval from George IV, who described it as “the finest drawing room in Europe”. It was the working centre of The Society of Writers to Her Majesty’s Signet, which is a ancient private society of Scottish solicitors. Writers to the Signet ... were involved in drawing up summonses to the Court of Session which were required to be signeted. The Society is now an independent, non-regulatory association of solicitors and maintains the Category A listed Signet Library.” – Scotsman Food and Drink
Conveniently located across the street from our camping pod in Dunvegan, The Old School produced our second best meal on the Isle of Skye. Originally built in the 1870s as Duirinish School, it opened as the Old School restaurant in 1985. The highlights of our dinner was Cary's first Cullen Skink, a delicious smoked haddock chowder, and their version of Cranachan (pictured left); a dessert made with Italian meringue, honey, oats, rasberries, short bread, and cream with a very healthy dose of Talisker whisky. The Talisker Distillery is the oldest working distillery on the Isle of Skye.
Sunday Roast at The Drapers Arms (London)
“It’s the lunch that waits for no man, a Sunday feast of iconic allure. Which is why that blessed roast is such a sacred affair, a cornerstone of home and hearth. Timing is everything – as the meat rests, the gravy is made. And as gravy bubbles, the potatoes get their last-minute blast to ensure that every part is crisp, golden and brilliantly burnished. At that exact point, the table is gathered, eager supplicants awaiting their Sunday sacrament. Leave it too long and all is ruined. Spuds go soggy, the meat cold, the veggies wan and weary. In short, it’s very much a domestic affair, one best avoided in pubs and restaurants across the land. There are, though, some notable exceptions. Places where the meat is chosen with loving care, the beef cooked rare, ... where Yorkshire puddings billow rather than bore, and the gravy’s good enough to slurp. These places are few and far between, but they do exist. Because if you’re going to trust this most magnificent of lunches to someone else, it had damned well better be good. ”
“The Drapers Arms, London – Sunday lunch has become legendary at this adored Islington gastropub. There are whole roasts to share, including roast chicken with bread sauce, slow-cooked shoulder of lamb, roast fore-rib of beef and loin of pork. Meat is impeccably sourced and arrives with proper roast potatoes, carrots, greens and gravy. ” – Daily Mail
That pretty much sums up our understanding of the Sunday Roast in the UK, and we were thrilled for an opportunity to partake in one. The fore-rib of beef and the Yorkshire puddings were enormous (those are normal sized utensils and wine glass) and the entire meal was so well prepared and such a wonder to behold and enjoy. There was plenty of gravy for Cary, too!
Afternoon Tea at Tîng, Shangri-La Hotel, At The Shard (London)
While a totally different setting than the Signet Library, Lynda found afternoon tea at Ting to share many of the same attributes. It was quiet, relaxed, and refined; away from the London crowds, while providing scrumptious treats and sandwiches. Cary is mildly obsessed with The Shard and was excited to be able to spend some time actually in it and on the 35th floor to view the landmark sights from above (see our pictures). Oh, and he thought the tea was good too (said almost as an afterthought), especially the unlimited sandwiches.
Kappacasein toasted cheese sandwich (Borough Market, London)
On our very last day in London, Cary waited in line to get his favorite toasted cheese sandwich at Kappacasein at Borough Market in London. It was so worth the wait!
Grilled Jolly Asparagus (Borough Market, London)
So good!
Monmouth Coffee (Borough Market, London)
“Monmouth Coffee is the roastery that originally put London on the coffee map.” – BestCoffee.guide
The Persian Love Cake was lovely! (image from Bacania Veche)
Rhubarb Crumble
Best Fish and Chips on the trip!
Established in approximately 1870, the Dunvegan Bakery is Skye's Oldest Bakery. Cary really liked the sausage rolls here.
Our Airbnb host recommend E. Mono for turkish shawarmas. It was quite good. A writer for The Times wrote an interesting article about the restaurant.
Look at that jammy egg!
Conveniently located near our lodging in London
Lots of vegetable focused small plates. Right in Lynda’s culinary sweet spot! And so well done, even Cary liked it.
Seasonal New American plates served in a diminutive funky store front. It’s like comfort food with a surprise. Oh that shaved asparagus with crunchy beef jerky packed a serious flavor punch! Our favorite meal in the U.S.
Chile Relleno and Oaxacan Carne Asada
Milanesa and Ahogada Tortas
Roman style pizza
“It’s amazing … You want it. You want it bad. Your life would be so much better if you have this right now. Leave your family. Abandon your children … You know you want it.” – Anthony Bourdain, The Layover at Bonci Pizza in Rome
“It’s coffee nerdery taken to the nth degree. ” – Sparrow Coffee
Seriously good stuff!
Fat Rice Bakery and Cafe (Chicago)
Celon snickerdoodle with salted egg yolk filling! The Macau Rice Crisp with pork floss and fish sauce caramel sounds weird, but it's good.
Ordered “One Beef, Juicy, Hot”
It was so good, Cary had to drive 30 minutes to get another one.
Heyn’s Premium Ice Cream (Iowa City)
Lemon Custard Ice Cream! Yumm!
Baurder Parmacy Ice Cream Shop (Des Moines)
Bauder's Peppermint Bar - Mmmmmm!
“Crunchy Oreo cookies. Thick peppermint ice cream. Rich fudge sauce. More cookies.” – Des Moines Register article with video
(image of the peppermint bar is from the Des Moines Register article)
B & B Grocery, Meat & Deli,(Des Moines)
Lynda told Cary specifically to order the “Little Piggy Pork Loin Killer Sandwich”, since we were also getting a Killer Italian sandwich. Cary got confused and ordered the “Piggy Pork Loin Killer Sandwich”, which is the extra large version. The breaded pork loin is so big the bun covers less than half the surface area. Really good pork! The Killer Italian sandwich was good too.
• Fish & Chips
• Scottish Salmon
• Pies, pasties, sausage rolls (basically lots of meat in pastry)
• Pizza, Pizza, and more Pizza (listed in order of consumption)
• Dante's Pizza (Omaha, NE)
• Fong's Pizza (Des Moines, IA)
• Harris Pizza (Taco Pizza in Davenport, IA)
• Lou Malnati's Pizzeria (Chicago)
• Pequod's Pizza
• Pizzeria Uno (Chicago)
• Bonci Pizza (Chicago)
Frontera Grill (Chicago)
Carne Asada a la Oxaquena - Best Thing I Ever Ate - Alex Guarnaschelli (video no longer available).
Segment starts at the 8 minute, 15 second mark.
Fong’s Pizza (Des Moines)
Crab Rangoon Pizza - Best Thing I Ever Ate - Alton Brown. It reminded us of our childhood
B&B Grocery (Des Moines), Zombie Burger (Coral Ridge), Fongs Pizza (Des Moines)
“B&B Grocery, Meat and Deli: I’m no dummy. I knew I needed to have pork tenderloin at some point in my day. So I headed to B&B for a pork tenderloin sandwich and also left with a Dad’s Killer, as well as an Italian Sandwich. Enough said. ”
“Zombie Burger: I received an overwhelming response of: “You can’t leave Des Moines without having Zombie Burger.” And I didn’t want to disappoint. They’re serving good burgers and really good milkshakes. My personal favorite is the Zombie Joe (I know, shocking). ”
“Fong’s Pizza: You ready for this? Fong’s Pizza is one of the coolest establishment’s I’ve ever been to. And I’m sad it’s not closer to Atlanta. Let me set the scene for you: Chinese decor, tiki drinks and serious pizza. Eating there with my crew was the most fun we’ve had on the tour yet. I’d recommend the Crab Rangoon (it was incredible). I can’t wait to go back.”
– Alton Brown, Road Eats - Des Moines
Pequod’s Pizza (Chicago)
Jeff Mauro, Best Pizza Ever
Sunny Anderson, Geoffrey Zakarian, Top 5 Restaurants - Pizza (video no longer available)
Lou Malnati’s Pizza – Anne Burrell , Best Pizza Ever
Bonci Pizza (Chicago)
It’s amazing … You want it. You want it bad. Your life would be so much better if you have this right now. Leave your family. Abandon your children … You know you want it.” – Anthony Bourdain, The Layover at Bonci Pizza in Rome
Johnnie’s Beef
The Best Sandwiches in America
Serious Eats Neighborhood Guides: Jeff Mauro's Guide to Elmwood Park (page no longer available)
Serious Eats - The Best Italian Beef Sandwiches in Chicago (page no longer available)
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